Rolex Explorer II Ref. 1655 (Steve McQueen, Orange Hand): The Watch That Wasn't His

There is a certain irony in calling the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 the "Steve McQueen." The nickname is collector shorthand for this specific reference, yet most horological historians believe Steve McQueen never actually owned or wore one. The association likely developed from a superficial resemblance to other watches McQueen wore, then propagated through the pre-internet collector grapevine until it became entrenched.

But the 1655 does not need a celebrity story to justify its place in the collector market. The orange 24-hour hand is one of the most visually striking elements in vintage Rolex, the reference had a relatively short production run, and the watch represents the Explorer II at its most purely functional before later models softened the design.

The Explorer II: Purpose and Introduction

Rolex introduced the Explorer II in 1971, specifically targeting cave explorers and spelunkers who needed a watch functional in environments where distinguishing day from night was impossible. The 24-hour hand on a fixed 24-hour bezel allowed the wearer to track whether a given hour was AM or PM, useful information when you have been underground for an uncertain amount of time.

The reference 1655 was produced from 1971 to 1984. It is a serious, utilitarian instrument. The case is large for the era at 40mm. The design is uncompromising: the orange 24-hour hand is functional, not decorative. It reads at a glance.

The Orange Hand

The 24-hour hand on the 1655 is the defining visual element. Painted orange (the color was originally a kind of burnt orange/rust; earlier examples have darker orange, later examples lighter) with a circular tip that frames the 24-hour chapter ring on the fixed bezel, it operates like the GMT hand on a Rolex GMT-Master but with an additional function: the bezel is engraved with 24 hours (not 12), so a full revolution of the orange hand takes 24 hours rather than 12.

This means you read the time with the standard hour hand on the 12-hour dial, and you verify AM or PM by the position of the orange hand on the 24-hour bezel.

The orange color was a practical choice: maximum contrast for legibility in difficult conditions. It is also what makes the watch visually unforgettable.

Specifications

Dial Variants

The 1655 was produced across a 13-year period, and the dial evolved:

"Freccione" dial (Italian for large arrow): Early 1655 dials have a large central arrow at the 12 o'clock position instead of an hour marker. These are highly sought and command premiums over later dials.

Later dials: Mid-to-late production 1655s replaced the arrow with a more standard rectangular hour marker at 12 o'clock. Still correct and desirable, but the Freccione is the collector prize.

Lume material: Earlier dials use tritium lume; the specific plots and the aging of the tritium affect both appearance and value.

Condition Grades and Values

| Condition | Description | Market Range | |---|---| | Excellent / Freccione dial | Unpolished, original dial, all correct | $20,000 - $40,000 | | Excellent / later dial | Unpolished, original dial, all correct | $12,000 - $22,000 | | Very Good / either dial | Light polish, original dial | $8,000 - $16,000 | | Good | Polished, original dial | $5,000 - $10,000 | | Fair | Polished, modified or dial issue | $3,000 - $6,000 |

The "Steve McQueen" Nickname in Context

The Explorer II gained the McQueen nickname partly because Steve McQueen was genuinely associated with Rolex (he famously wore a Submariner 5512 in his film appearances and in personal life), and partly because the 1655's rugged, masculine aesthetic fit the McQueen persona.

The specific McQueen connection to the 1655 has never been documented with photographs or auction provenance. In the collector market, the nickname persists as shorthand for the reference regardless of its dubious origin.

This is actually good news for buyers: the watch is valued on its own considerable merits, not artificially inflated by genuine celebrity connection.

Authentication Points

Orange hand originality: Replacement 24-hour hands with incorrect orange paint or wrong shape affect value. Reference the specific tip form (circular pip) of authentic 1655 hands.

Case polish: The 40mm Oyster case should show original surface character in excellent and very good examples. Polishing rounds the crisp edges of the case sides and lugs.

Dial verification: The Freccione dial specifically should be matched against reference examples for the arrow form, text placement, and lume plot configuration.

Movement: Cal. 1575 is the correct movement. Check the movement serial against Rolex production records.

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