Breguet Type XX Ref. 3800 (Flyback Chronograph)

The Breguet Type XX has one of the most compelling backstories in all of watchmaking. It began life as a military specification, a set of requirements issued by the French military for pilot chronographs. It became a civilian legend, connecting one of the oldest names in horology to the cockpits of Cold War-era fighter jets. The Ref. 3800, introduced in the 1990s, brought this heritage into the modern era with a refined package that honored the original military instruments while offering the finishing and comfort expected of a Breguet.

The flyback chronograph function, which allows the pilot to reset and restart the chronograph with a single press rather than the usual three-press sequence (stop, reset, start), is the defining technical feature. In combat aviation, those saved seconds could mean the difference between a successful mission and a disaster. In civilian life, the flyback remains one of the most satisfying complications in watchmaking, both for its mechanical ingenuity and its visceral, snap-action feel.

Historical Origins

The Type XX designation originated in the 1950s when the French Ministry of Defense issued specifications for military pilot chronographs. The "Type XX" referred to the military specification number, not a Breguet model designation. Several manufacturers produced watches to this specification, including Breguet, which supplied chronographs to the French Air Force (Armee de l'Air) and Navy (Aeronavale).

The original military Type XX watches were functional instruments: large (38mm, which was oversized for the 1950s), legible, and equipped with the flyback function that pilots demanded. They were issued with military markings and typically wore out in service, making surviving original military examples extremely valuable today.

Breguet revived the Type XX for civilian sale in the 1970s, and the Ref. 3800 (introduced in 1995) represents the most refined civilian interpretation of the military original.

The Ref. 3800

Case

• Diameter: 39mm

• Thickness: Approximately 12.4mm

• Material: Stainless steel (most common), also available in yellow gold and rose gold

• Case Back: Sapphire display back, exposing the decorated movement

• Water Resistance: 30 meters

• Crown: Signed Breguet crown with the "B" logo

Dial

The Ref. 3800 dial maintains the legibility priorities of the military original:

• Color: Black (most common), also produced in blue, silver, and brown variants

• Subdials: Three registers (running seconds at 9 o'clock, 30-minute counter at 3 o'clock, 12-hour counter at 6 o'clock)

• Date: Date window at 3 o'clock, integrated with the 30-minute subdial

• Luminous Material: Applied luminous markers and hands for low-light legibility

• Tachymeter Scale: Printed on the inner bezel ring

Movement

• Caliber: Lemania 1350 based (Breguet Caliber 582)

• Type: Automatic winding

• Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

• Jewels: 25

• Power Reserve: Approximately 48 hours

• Flyback Function: The defining complication, allowing instant chronograph reset and restart

• Finishing: Cotes de Geneve (Geneva stripes), beveled edges, Breguet-signed rotor

The Lemania 1350 base caliber (the same family used in the Omega Speedmaster Professional moonwatch) is among the most respected chronograph movements ever produced. Breguet's modifications include the flyback function and enhanced finishing appropriate to a haute horlogerie brand.

The Flyback Complication

The flyback (or "retour en vol" in French, literally "return in flight") function deserves special attention:

Standard chronograph operation: 1. Press start to begin timing 2. Press stop to halt the chronograph 3. Press reset to return to zero 4. Press start again to begin a new timing interval

Flyback chronograph operation: 1. Press start to begin timing 2. Press the reset button while the chronograph is running 3. The chronograph instantly resets to zero and begins timing again in one action

This eliminates three button presses and the associated time delay. For pilots timing navigation legs, bombing runs, or approach procedures, this efficiency was critical. For watch enthusiasts, the snap of the chronograph hand returning to twelve and immediately resuming its sweep is one of the most satisfying mechanical watch experiences available.

Current Market Values (2024-2026)

Configuration	Condition	Estimated Value
Steel, black dial	Excellent (box/papers)	$5,000 - $8,000
Steel, black dial	Good (no box/papers)	$3,500 - $5,500
Steel, blue dial	Excellent (box/papers)	$6,000 - $9,000
Yellow gold, black dial	Excellent (box/papers)	$8,000 - $13,000
Rose gold	Excellent (box/papers)	$9,000 - $14,000
Any metal, serviced, with original bracelet	Premium of 10-20%

Value Factors

• Dial Color: Black is standard; blue, silver, and brown dials are rarer and command premiums of 15-30%

• Metal: Steel is most common and most affordable. Gold variants are rarer and more valuable.

• Bracelet vs. Strap: Original Breguet steel bracelet adds $500 to $1,000 compared to a strap-only example

• Box and Papers: Complete sets with original box, papers, and warranty card add 15-25% to the value

• Service History: Recent service by Breguet with documentation is preferred

Condition Grading

• Excellent: Case shows minimal wear, crystal is scratch-free (or original crystal in good condition), dial is clean without discoloration, movement running accurately. Complete with box, papers, and accessories.

• Very Good: Light wear on case and bracelet, minor marks. Dial clean. Movement running well. May be missing some original packaging.

• Good: Moderate wear consistent with regular use. Case shows polish marks or dings. Movement recently serviced or needing service. Missing original packaging.

• Fair: Heavy wear, significant case marks, possible dial issues. Movement may need service. Priced for the movement and case value.

Comparison: Ref. 3800 vs. Ref. 3810

Breguet also produced the Ref. 3810 (Type XXI), a closely related model with slight differences:

Feature	Ref. 3800 (Type XX)	Ref. 3810 (Type XXI)
Case Size	39mm	39.5mm
Movement	Cal. 582 (Lemania based)	Cal. 584 (Lemania based)
Subdials	Three-register	Two-register
Date	At 3 o'clock	At 6 o'clock
Second Time Zone	No	Yes (central hand)

Both references are excellent watches. The Ref. 3800 is the more traditional chronograph layout, while the Ref. 3810 adds a second time zone function at the cost of a subdial.

The Breguet Heritage

Owning a Breguet Type XX connects the wearer to Abraham-Louis Breguet, arguably the most important watchmaker in history. Breguet's innovations in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, including the tourbillon, the Breguet overcoil, and the pare-chute shock protection system, laid the foundation for modern watchmaking.

The Type XX honors this heritage while embracing a different facet of Breguet's history: the brand's relationship with the French military and aviation community. It is a Breguet that is meant to be worn and used, not just admired.

Investment Outlook

The Ref. 3800 represents strong value in the current watch market:

• Breguet is widely regarded as one of the top five watchmaking brands historically

• The flyback chronograph complication is mechanically sophisticated and increasingly valued

• Current market prices are below replacement cost (a new Breguet Type XX retails for significantly more)

• The military heritage adds collector appeal beyond pure horological interest

• Well-maintained examples appreciate steadily as the model becomes a recognized modern classic

Why the Ref. 3800 Matters

The Breguet Type XX Ref. 3800 is that rare thing in watchmaking: a watch with genuine historical credentials, world-class mechanical sophistication, and real-world wearability. It connects the oldest name in horology to the jet age, wraps a flyback chronograph in a case that fits perfectly on the wrist, and does it all with the quiet confidence that only Breguet can deliver. For collectors who value substance over hype, the Ref. 3800 is one of the smartest buys in the market.

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