Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 (Red Submariner, Mk IV Dial)

The Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680 holds a unique place in horological history. Produced from 1967 to 1979, it was the first Submariner to feature a date complication, and early examples carried a dial detail that would become legendary: the word "SUBMARINER" printed in red rather than white. These "Red Submariners" are among the most collected and most studied vintage Rolex watches in existence, and the Mark IV dial variant represents one of the most accessible and popular entry points into this rarefied collecting niche.

The Birth of the Date Submariner

The original Rolex Submariner, introduced in 1953, was a pure tool watch designed for divers. It told the time underwater. That was it. No date window, no cyclops lens, no concessions to anything beyond legibility at depth.

By the mid-1960s, market demand for a date-equipped Submariner had grown strong enough for Rolex to develop the Ref. 1680. The addition of a date window at 3 o'clock, complete with Rolex's signature magnifying cyclops lens, transformed the Submariner from a single-purpose dive instrument into a versatile daily watch. It was a pivotal moment in the model's evolution and arguably the step that set the Submariner on the path to becoming the world's most recognized luxury sports watch.

The earliest Ref. 1680 dials featured the model name "SUBMARINER" printed in red text, with the depth rating printed below in white. This two-tone dial treatment was used from approximately 1967 to 1974, when Rolex switched to all-white text. The red text period produced six recognized dial variants, designated Mark I through Mark VI by collectors.

Understanding the Mark IV Dial

Rolex did not intentionally create "marks" for collectors to obsess over. The dial variations arose from changes in printing methods, text spacing, and font characteristics that occurred naturally during production. Collectors, being the detail-oriented people they are, identified and cataloged these variations decades later.

The Mark IV dial is characterized by several specific features:

The Mark IV is one of the more commonly encountered red dial variants, which is relative: "common" among Red Submariners still means genuinely scarce in absolute terms.

Specifications

The Caliber 1575 Movement

The 1680 is powered by Rolex's Caliber 1575, a robust automatic movement that served the brand well across multiple references. It features 26 jewels, a glucydur balance wheel, and the hack feature (seconds hand stops when crown is pulled) that was introduced later in the production run. The quickset date feature was not yet available; setting the date requires cycling through the hours, which is a characteristic that experienced Rolex collectors actually appreciate as a marker of vintage authenticity.

The Cal. 1575 has proven to be exceptionally durable and serviceable. Rolex service centers and independent watchmakers have extensive experience with this movement, and parts availability remains good.

Condition Guide and Value Table

Red Submariner values vary significantly based on dial mark, overall condition, and completeness. The Mark IV dial falls in the middle of the value range among the six marks.

Note: Meters-first dials (Mark I, II, III) generally command higher prices than feet-first dials (Mark IV, V, VI) due to earlier production dates and lower survival rates.

Condition Grades Explained

• Mint: The watch appears essentially unworn with a sharp case, perfect dial, strong lume plots, and an unstretched bracelet. Box and papers matching the serial number complete the set. Truly mint Red Submariners are museum-quality pieces.

• Excellent: Light signs of careful wear. Case edges remain sharp with minimal polishing. Dial is clean with even tritium lume (no missing plots). Bracelet shows normal stretch but remains tight.

• Very Good: The watch has been worn regularly but maintained. Some case polishing may have softened edges slightly. Dial may show gentle patina. Bracelet has moderate stretch.

• Good: Visible wear including polished cases, replaced parts (crystal, hands, or bracelet), or a service replacement dial. Service dials lack the red text and significantly reduce value.

• Fair: Heavy wear, possible water damage, non-running condition, or significant parts replacement. May be a project watch requiring substantial investment.

Authentication and What to Watch Out For

The Red Submariner is one of the most frequently faked and misrepresented vintage Rolex references. Due diligence is essential:

Dial authenticity: The most critical element. Refinished dials, "franken" dials assembled from multiple donors, and outright fakes are disturbingly common. The red text should show consistent color, proper font weight, and correct positioning for the claimed mark. Microscopic examination by an expert is strongly recommended.

Tritium lume consistency: All lume plots should match in color and patina. Mismatched lume suggests replaced hands or a redone dial.

Case condition: Heavily polished cases that have lost their original finishing are common. Look for sharp lugs with defined edges. Over-polished cases have rounded lugs and lost case metal.

Serial and reference numbers: The serial number (between the lugs at 6 o'clock) and reference number (between the lugs at 12 o'clock) should be consistent with the claimed production year and match the dial mark.

Bracelet authenticity: Original bracelets from the correct era add significant value. Later replacement bracelets are acceptable but should be disclosed and priced accordingly.

Service history: Rolex service can include dial and hand replacement. A watch returned from Rolex service with a white-text replacement dial has lost its Red Sub status, even though the case and movement are authentic.

Market Trends and Investment Outlook

The Red Submariner has been one of the strongest performers in the vintage Rolex market over the past decade. Prices have risen dramatically from the $5,000-$10,000 range of the early 2010s to current levels well above $20,000 for clean examples.

Demand drivers include:

Rolex brand strength: The broader Rolex market continues to expand, drawing new collectors who eventually graduate to vintage references.

Historical significance: The 1680 is the transitional reference that bridged the pure tool-watch era and the modern Submariner. Its historical importance is well established.

Visual distinction: The red text creates immediate visual recognition. Even casual watch enthusiasts can spot a Red Sub across a room.

Limited surviving population: After 50+ years, the number of genuine, unaltered Red Submariners with intact original dials continues to shrink.

The primary risk is the broader luxury watch market's cyclical nature. Vintage Rolex prices softened modestly during the 2022-2023 correction, though Red Submariners held value better than most contemporary references.

The Six Marks: A Quick Reference

For collectors looking to understand where the Mark IV fits in the broader Red Sub landscape:

• Mark I (Meters First): Earliest and rarest. Depth rating reads "200m - 660ft." Highest values.

• Mark II (Meters First): Subtle font differences from Mark I. Very scarce.

• Mark III (Meters First): Last of the meters-first variants.

• Mark IV (Feet First): Depth rating switches to "660ft / 200m." Most commonly traded mark.

• Mark V (Feet First): Minor text spacing changes from Mark IV.

• Mark VI (Feet First): Final red text variant before transition to all-white text.

Why the Red Submariner Ref. 1680 Belongs in a Serious Collection

The Rolex Submariner is the most important dive watch ever made. The Ref. 1680 is the most important evolutionary step in the Submariner's history. And the Red Submariner is the most visually distinctive and collectible variant of the 1680. That chain of superlatives is not marketing language; it is consensus among vintage watch collectors and horological historians.

The Mark IV dial offers an attractive entry point into Red Sub collecting. It is more available than the meters-first marks, making it realistic to find a clean example without waiting years. Yet it carries the same visual impact, the same historical significance, and the same Rolex provenance as its rarer siblings. For the collector who wants a piece of dive watch history on the wrist, the Red Sub 1680 delivers in a way that few other watches can.

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