Navajo Chief's Blanket Third Phase (1860-1880)

The Crown Jewel of Native American Textile Art

The Navajo Chief's Blanket represents the pinnacle of Native American weaving artistry, and the Third Phase pattern (circa 1860-1880) is widely considered the most visually striking of the three classic phases. Characterized by nine diamond or cross formations arranged across a field of horizontal bands, Third Phase blankets combine geometric precision with artistic boldness in ways that continue to captivate collectors and museums alike.

Despite the name, these were not exclusively worn by chiefs. The designation "Chief's Blanket" reflects their exceptional quality and the fact that they were prestigious trade items, exchanged between tribes and valued as symbols of wealth and status. The Navajo wove them primarily for trade with Plains tribes, where they were indeed worn by leaders and individuals of high standing.

Authentic Third Phase Chief's Blankets from the 1860-1880 period routinely sell for $75,000 to $175,000, with exceptional examples reaching considerably higher. They represent one of the most significant categories in American decorative arts collecting.

The Three Phases Explained

Navajo Chief's Blankets evolved through three distinct design phases, each building on the previous pattern vocabulary.

First Phase (circa 1800-1850)

The earliest and simplest pattern consists of alternating broad bands of brown (natural wool), white (natural wool), and blue (indigo-dyed). No additional design elements interrupt the horizontal bands. First Phase blankets are the rarest and most valuable, with the record-setting "Chantland Blanket" selling for $1.8 million at John Moran Auctioneers in 2012.

Second Phase (circa 1840-1870)

Second Phase blankets introduce rectangular design elements (sometimes called bars or blocks) within the horizontal bands. These rectangles, typically in red from cochineal or lac-dyed raveled yarns, add visual interest while maintaining the overall horizontal orientation. The rectangles are positioned at the center and corners of the blanket.

Third Phase (circa 1860-1880)

The Third Phase represents the fullest expression of the Chief's Blanket design. Stepped or serrated diamonds and cross formations are superimposed on the background bands, creating nine distinct design elements: a full diamond at the center, half diamonds at the midpoints of each edge, and quarter diamonds at the four corners. The overall effect is dramatically more complex than the first two phases while maintaining the fundamental horizontal band structure.

The Third Phase pattern reflects increased contact with outside influences and the growing commercial market for Navajo textiles. The diamond motifs may have been influenced by Mexican Saltillo serape designs, demonstrating the cross-cultural exchanges that shaped Southwestern textile traditions.

Materials and Construction

Authentic Third Phase Chief's Blankets from the 1860-1880 period use specific materials that are critical to authentication.

Yarns

Churro wool from the Navajo-Churro sheep breed is the foundation material. This wool has a distinctive character, long staple, relatively coarse texture, and natural colors ranging from white to brown to near-black. Handspun Churro wool has a particular feel and appearance that differs from commercially spun yarns.

Raveled yarn (bayeta) was commonly used for red and sometimes other colors. Navajo weavers would unravel commercial trade cloth (often from Spain or England) and re-spin the threads for use in their weaving. Raveled yarn has a characteristic twist direction and fiber quality that experts can identify.

Indigo-dyed yarn produces the blue tones. Authentic period indigo has specific characteristics under ultraviolet light and chemical analysis that distinguish it from synthetic dyes introduced later.

Cochineal or lac dyes produce the red and pinkish-red tones in period examples. These natural dyes have chemical signatures that differ from synthetic aniline dyes, which became available in the late 1860s.

Weave Structure

Chief's Blankets use a tapestry weave technique on a simple horizontal loom. The weaving is done sideways (the warp runs horizontally when the blanket is worn), which is a distinctive feature of Navajo wearing blankets as opposed to rugs.

Thread count, tension consistency, and selvage (edge) construction are all indicators of authenticity and quality. Period weavings typically show the slight irregularities inherent in handwork, which paradoxically serve as authentication markers.

Condition Grading Guide

Critical Assessment Factors

Color retention is a primary value driver. The natural and vegetal dyes used in authentic period blankets can fade with light exposure over 150+ years. Strong, saturated colors indicate careful storage and dramatically increase value.

Structural integrity includes the condition of selvages (edges), the weave tension, and the absence of holes, tears, or weak spots. Intact selvages on all four sides are particularly valued, as edges are the most vulnerable areas.

Yarn condition affects both appearance and longevity. Brittle or deteriorating yarn indicates potential future loss. Supple, intact yarn suggests the blanket has been stored in appropriate conditions.

Repairs and restorations must be evaluated carefully. Period repairs using compatible materials may be acceptable and even add historical interest. Modern repairs using synthetic materials or incompatible techniques are generally viewed negatively.

Market Values

These ranges reflect genuine period Third Phase blankets. Transitional pieces (those between phases or with unusual design elements) can trade outside these ranges. Fourth Phase or later revival pieces trade at significantly lower levels.

For context, First Phase blankets in comparable condition trade at multiples of Third Phase values, while Second Phase pieces typically fall between the two.

Authentication

Given the values involved, authentication is paramount. Several approaches are used.

Expert Examination

Specialists in Navajo textiles evaluate the overall design, materials, construction techniques, and signs of age. Recognized authorities include curators at institutions like the Heard Museum, the School for Advanced Research in Santa Fe, and the Arizona State Museum.

Material Analysis

Fiber identification, dye analysis (including chromatography), and yarn structure examination can confirm the use of period-appropriate materials. The presence of synthetic (aniline) dyes, for example, would date a textile to after the late 1860s at the earliest.

Provenance Research

Documented ownership history adds enormous value and confidence. Blankets with histories traceable to specific traders, collectors, or Native American families carry stronger authentication than examples appearing without documented background.

Carbon-14 Dating

For very early or disputed examples, radiocarbon dating of the wool fibers can establish approximate age ranges, though the precision is limited for textiles from this recent a period.

Cultural Significance

Chief's Blankets are not merely collectibles. They are cultural artifacts of the Dine (Navajo) people and carry deep cultural significance. The weaving tradition continues today, with contemporary Navajo weavers producing Chief's Blankets that honor and extend the tradition.

Collectors should approach these textiles with respect for their cultural context. Ethical collecting practices include:

• Verifying that pieces were legitimately acquired, not stolen from Native communities or burial sites

• Supporting Navajo weavers and cultural institutions when possible

• Acknowledging the cultural origin and significance when displaying or discussing these textiles

• Being aware of applicable regulations, including NAGPRA (Native American Graves Protection and Repatriation Act) for pieces with potential ceremonial or funerary connections

Care and Conservation

Period Chief's Blankets require careful handling and storage:

• Store flat, rolled on acid-free tubes, or folded with acid-free tissue at fold points (rotating fold lines periodically)

• Maintain stable temperature (65-70 degrees F) and moderate humidity (45-55%)

• Protect from light exposure, which fades natural dyes

• Never dry clean or machine wash

• Consult a textile conservator for any cleaning or repair needs

• Avoid hanging for extended periods, as gravity stress can weaken aging fibers

• Use acid-free materials for any storage or display purposes

Buying Tips

1. Get expert authentication. At these price levels, professional authentication is not optional. Consult recognized Navajo textile specialists.
2. Demand provenance. Documented ownership history provides both authentication support and ethical assurance.
3. Examine materials carefully. The type of yarn, dye, and weave structure must be consistent with the claimed period.
4. Assess color honestly. Vibrant colors command premiums, but beware of artificially enhanced or refreshed colors.
5. Understand the phases. Ensure you know exactly which phase you are purchasing. Transitional pieces between phases require expert evaluation.
6. Consider conservation costs. A blanket in fair condition may need professional conservation work, which can cost thousands of dollars.
7. Buy from reputable dealers. Established dealers in Native American art stake their reputations on authenticity and typically offer guarantees.

Browse all Antiques and Decorative Arts →

Related Items